Sitting in bathtub-warm water in the middle of the desert

Sitting in bathtub-warm water in the middle of the desert looking at the surrounding mountains under a deep blue sky is a delightful experience. We are in the Cuatro Ciénegas Nature Preserve just outside the town of Cuatro Ciénegas, northwest of Monclova in the state of Coahuila.

This Area of Protection of Flora and Fauna is so designated by the Mexican Federal Environmental Oversight Agency because it has unique plant and animal species. It comprises over 843 square miles and around 200 pozas, or ponds.

The desert setting gives a spacious feel and the ponds seem to welcome you like an old friend. There is a disconcerting feeling of being pampered in the midst of the stark surroundings.

Cuatro Ciénegas means "four marshes" and refers to the topography of this land in the Chihuahuan desert. The source for the marshes and pozas are thermal springs in the nearby Sierra San Marcos mountains.

In the town there is a tourist center in the municipal building on the central plaza. Tour guides in your own car may be arranged or regular tours of the area may be available if there are enough people. If you want to go onto the dirt tracks that cross the desert a guide is recommended The office headquarters for the nature preserve is just up the street from the plaza on Calle Zaragoza. It has minimal information for the casual tourist on the Preserve but does have scientific information on research in the area.

The visitors' center for the preserve is 7 km. south of town on Highway 30, leading directly south from the main plaza. The helpful attendant at the center showed us unique hinged turtles (terrapene coahuila) that are native to the area. The lower shell of the turtle is hinged about 1/3 of the way back so that after it has pulled itself into its shell it can close up completely.

Behind the center are several ponds and a self-guided nature walk. Information on small signposts along the path identifies the vegetation there. Lechugilla, creosote bush, saltbush, ocotillo and more can be seen. A hike about 1 km. long leads to a picnic area and another blue, blue pond. No swimming is allowed in this pond because of the fragility of the aquatic ecosystem.

You can swim at Poza La Becerra, a balneario 18 km. south of town on Highway 30, past the visitors' center. La Becerra has extensive picnic grounds, camping area, changing rooms, showers and toilets. The pond is quite large and is roped off into sections for swimming.. The water is warm and the bottom is firm. The water is so clear that you can see the schools of little fish gathering around your feet.

Cuatrocienegas is located 80 km west of Monclova in theState of Coahuila, Mexico.

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